Coffee, Explained

Getting Started

Specialty coffee prints a great deal on a bag and explains none of it. Here is what each word means and what it tells you about the cup. Start anywhere. None of it needs memorizing.

A woven basket filled with ripe red and dark coffee cherries, standing on the forest floor of a coffee farm
Ripe cherry, picked. Everything on the label starts here.

Country and region

On the bag: Honduras

Coffee is a crop, and like wine grapes it tastes of the place it grew. Soil, rainfall, altitude, and the varieties that do well locally combine into flavors that recur reliably enough that experienced drinkers can often guess a country from the cup.

The Coffee BeltHonduras: Honduras El Mirador, Honduras El Mirador Dark, Honduras PacamaraHondurasEthiopia: Ethiopia Dogo SoduEthiopiaColombia: Colombia Sugarcane DecafColombia
Coffee grows between the tropics and essentially nowhere else. Ours comes from Honduras, Ethiopia, Colombia.

Some rough tendencies. Ethiopian coffees lean floral and tea-like with citrus acidity. Colombian and Honduran coffees lean toward caramel, chocolate, and nuts, with rounder body. Treat those as starting points. A single farm can defy its whole country.

Region matters as much as country, which is why our coffee pages name it. Comayagua, Honduras tells you more than "Honduras" alone, the way Napa tells you more than California.

Coffee cherries ripening on the branch, red and green fruit against dark leaves
Cherries ripen unevenly on the same branch

The farm, or the lot

On the bag: El Mirador, and on its page Finca El Mirador · Santa Lucía Estate

A lot is a batch of coffee kept separate from everything else through picking, processing, and shipping. It might be one farm, one field on that farm, or one day of harvest brought to a collection point by many smallholders.

Keeping a lot separate costs money, so it only happens when the coffee is worth the trouble. Commodity coffee is blended until it has no address. A named lot is a roaster telling you where the coffee came from and inviting you to hold them to it.

A picker's hands taking ripe cherries from the branch one at a time
Picked by hand, ripe only, one pass at a time

Varietal

On its page: Red Bourbon, Typica

The botanical variety of the plant, which is to coffee what Cabernet Sauvignon is to wine. Nearly all specialty coffee is one species, Coffea arabica, and within it are dozens of varieties that taste meaningfully different.

Bourbon, Typica
The old classics. Sweet, balanced, dependable.
Caturra, Castillo
Workhorses, bred for yield and disease resistance.
Pacamara
A large-beaned cross with unusual, wine-like intensity.
Gesha
The famous one. Intensely floral, and priced accordingly.
Landrace, heirloom
Ethiopian shorthand for indigenous local varieties, some known only by number, growing there for centuries.

Varietal sets the ceiling. Growing, processing, and roasting decide how close the coffee gets to it.

Process

On the bag: Washed

Coffee grows as a fruit, usually called a cherry, and the bean is the seed inside. Process means how the fruit was taken off the seed after picking. It changes flavor more than anything else short of the roast, which makes it the most useful word on the bag.

  1. A single ripe red coffee cherry held between finger and thumb
    1. The fruit

    One cherry, usually two seeds inside it.

  2. Wet pale green coffee seeds in cupped hands under running water, the fruit already stripped away
    2. The seed

    The fruit comes off, by machine or by fermentation.

  3. Coffee spread out to dry in the sun, husks gone golden brown
    3. Drying

    Down to about 11 percent moisture, then it can travel.

Inside a cherry
  • Skin
  • Fruit
  • Mucilage, the sticky layer
  • Parchment, a papery husk
  • Seed, usually two of them

Every process is a decision about how many of those layers come off before the seed is dried, and how long the rest stay on.

Choose a process to see what it leaves on the seed
Coffee seeds drying inside their dry, papery, straw-colored parchment husk, with no fruit left on them
The same parchment-covered seeds, coated in a thin sticky amber film of fruit mucilage that strings between them
Whole coffee cherries drying with the fruit still on, skins wrinkled and leathery, ranging from red to nearly black
Whole coffee cherries part submerged in cloudy reddish-brown fermenting juice, with foam across the surface
Off before drying: skin, fruit, mucilage

The skin and fruit come off, and the sticky layer underneath is fermented away before drying. Nothing is left to flavor the seed, so the cup is the variety and the ground it grew in. Clean and precise, and the hardest process to hide a mediocre coffee behind.

Off before drying: skin, fruit

The skin and most of the fruit come off, but the sticky mucilage stays on through drying. Sweetness closer to a natural, structure closer to a washed. The name describes the texture of that layer, not the taste.

Whole cherry, nothing removed

The whole cherry dries with the fruit still on it, and the seed takes on the fruit as it goes. Heavier body, berry and jam flavors, a bigger and less precise cup. The oldest method, and the hardest to do cleanly.

Whole cherry, sealed tank

The whole cherry ferments in a sealed tank with the oxygen pushed out, then dries. Starved of oxygen a different population of microbes does the work, and the results can be dramatic: red wine, spice, tropical fruit. A modern technique, and an intense one.

A shortcut while you find your feet. Choose washed if you like tea, clarity, and a clean finish. Choose natural or anaerobic if you like big fruit and want to be surprised.

Decaf is a separate step rather than a fruit process. Ours uses ethyl acetate derived from fermented sugarcane, a compound that occurs naturally in fruit. It bonds to the caffeine and draws it out, gently enough that the coffee keeps its character.

On our shelf right now
Honduras El MiradorWashedMedium Roast
Honduras El Mirador DarkWashedDark Roast
Ethiopia Dogo SoduWashedLight Roast
Honduras Pacamara92-Hour Anaerobic NaturalLight-Medium Roast
Colombia Sugarcane DecafWashed · Sugarcane EAMedium Roast

Altitude

On its page: 1,650 MASL

MASL means meters above sea level. Higher is colder, and cold slows the cherry down. A slow-ripening cherry spends longer building sugars and acids and produces a denser bean with more to say. Around 1,200 meters is where specialty begins, and anything above 1,800 is high. Our highest-grown coffee is Ethiopia Dogo Sodu at 1,800 – 2,200 MASL.

1,800 – 2,200Ethiopia Dogo Sodu1,750Colombia Sugarcane Decaf1,650Honduras El Mirador, Honduras El Mirador Dark, Honduras Pacamara
Meters above sea level. Higher is colder, and a cherry that ripens slowly builds more sugar and a denser bean.

Altitude is not a score. It is a growing condition that rewards the farmer who has it, and steep cold hillsides cost more to work.

Roast level

On the bag: Medium Roast

Green coffee has almost no flavor. Roasting creates it, and how far the roast goes decides how much of the cup belongs to the coffee and how much belongs to the roast.

Choose a roast level
Light Roast · Agtron 65 to 82

Acidity, florals, and the character of the place stay in front. The roast gets out of the way.

Ours: Ethiopia Dogo Sodu

Light-Medium Roast · Agtron 60 to 75

Far enough for the sugars to read as sweetness, never far enough to cover the fruit.

Ours: Honduras Pacamara

Medium Roast · Agtron 55 to 68

Caramel sweetness and body, with origin still audible underneath. The most forgiving place to start.

Ours: Honduras El Mirador, Colombia Sugarcane Decaf

Dark Roast · Agtron 38 to 52

Chocolate and molasses, stopped short of smoke. Past this point every coffee starts tasting the same.

Ours: Honduras El Mirador Dark

Darker is not stronger, and it is not more caffeine. Both of those come from how you brew.

Since "medium" means something different at every roastery, we print a measured number too. That is the Agtron scale, which has its own page.

Tasting notes

On the bag: Brown Sugar · Almond · Hazelnut

The most misread line on any bag. Nothing has been added. There is no hazelnut in the hazelnut coffee. These are the flavors the roaster found in the cup, named by reaching for the nearest familiar thing.

Treat them as a direction rather than a promise. Palates differ, and putting words to a taste takes practice. If a coffee tastes like brown sugar to you and the bag says almond, you are not wrong.

The batch number

Stamped on the bag: a code like A064

Every bag is stamped by hand with the number of the roast it came from. Type it into our batch lookup and you get the record for that exact roast.

Roasted on
The actual date. Coffee is best from a few days after roasting to about a month after, so this is the freshness date that matters, not a best-before printed a year out.
Agtron
An instrument reading of how dark the roast went, where higher is lighter. It turns "medium" from an opinion into a number. The scale is explained here.
Development
How much of the roast happened after the beans audibly cracked. Too little tastes sour and grassy, too much flattens into roast. It is the number that shows whether the roast was under control.

Very few roasters publish this. We do, for every batch.

Weight, and whole bean

On the bag: 12 oz / 340 g

Every bag we sell is 12 oz / 340 g of whole beans. We do not grind to order, because ground coffee goes stale in days while whole beans hold for weeks. A burr grinder is the biggest upgrade available to a home brewer, ahead of any machine.

Once you have the beans, our brew guides cover ratio and grind size for the common methods.

Where to start

If all of this is new, ignore it and start here instead. Pick a washed coffee at a medium roast. It is the most forgiving combination there is and a fair baseline for everything else. From our lineup that is Honduras El Mirador. For the other end of the range try Honduras Pacamara. The difference lands in the first sip. Good decaf is real, and Colombia Sugarcane Decaf is ours.

Buy small, drink it fresh, and notice which ones you reach for again. That is the whole method.

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